Basics Fashion Design 03 Construction

Construction is the foundation of fashion design; it takes passion and great skill to turn a two-dimensional drawing into a successful garment. Construction for Fashion Design guides readers through the process, teaching the theory, practical skills and techniques that they need to succeed. It leads readers through the essential stages of creating a garment, from pattern cutting and draping on the mannequin to sewing techniques and haberdashery. This fully revised and expanded second edition features insightful case studies with leading creative practitioners at the cutting edge of the fashion industry today, complete with detailed, step-by-step exercises that enable readers to contextualise their knowledge and put it into practise for the creation of their own successful projects.

This volume leads the reader through the essential stages of creating a garment, from pattern cutting and draping a mannequin, to finishing and haberdashery.

Fashion designers are presented with a range of methods and concepts for pattern cutting are presented, the main body of these methods, both traditional and contemporary, is predominately based on a theoretical approximation of the body that is derived from horizontal and vertical measurements of the body in an upright position: the tailoring matrix. As a consequence, there is a lack of interactive and dynamic qualities in methods connected to this paradigm of garment construction, from both expressional and functional perspectives. This work proposes and explores an alternative paradigm for pattern cutting that includes a new theoretical approximation of the body as well as a more kinetic method for garment construction that, unlike the prevalent theory and its related methods, takes as its point of origin the interaction between the anisotropic fabric and the biomechanical structure of the body. As such, the research conducted here is basic research, aiming to identify fundamental principles for garment construction. Based on some key principles found in the works of Geneviève Sevin-Doering and in pre-tailoring methods for constructing garments, the proposed theory for – and method of – garment construction was developed through concrete experiments by cutting and draping fabrics on live models. Instead of a static matrix of a non-moving body, the result is a kinetic construction theory of the body that is comprised of balance directions and key biomechanical points, along with an alternative draping method for dressmaking. This methodology challenges the fundamental relationship between dress, garment construction, and the body, working from the body outward, as opposed to the methods that are based on the prevalent paradigm of the tailoring matrix, which work from the outside toward the body. This alternative theory for understanding the body and the proposed method of working allows for diverse expressions and enhanced functional possibilities in dress.

This comprehensive guide explores the fundamental sewing methods fashion designers need and teaches professional garment construction. Chapter One introduces sewing tools and machinery (including industrial machines). It discusses how to work with patterns and explains cutting-out methods. Chapter Two is devoted to different fabrics and how they work, focusing on the construction of a garment, including fastenings and trimmings, and the use of materials to support structured pieces, such as corsets. Hand-sewing techniques and basic seams are explored in Chapter Three. Techniques are demonstrated with step-by-step photographic guides combined with technical drawings. A guide to making garment details and decorations, such as pockets, waistlines, and necklines, is found in Chapter Four. Chapter Five addresses fabric-specific techniques, for everything from lace to neoprene. The best technical approaches to use for patternmaking and construction are discussed for each fabric. Catwalk images demonstrate how these kinds of techniques are employed by designers.

Sewing techniques are sometimes overlooked in the design process but acquiring these skills can be transformational. The ability to turn a two-dimensional design into its three-dimensional realization comes from having mastered basic sewing techniques. Sewing Techniques simplifies the often complex techniques that lie behind this process by arming designers with the precise information and skills needed to undertake each task. Designers who develop a basic understanding of the processes involved in sample and garment construction often produce successful outcomes based on a more experimental and creative approach applied during the product development process. Developing a sample folio and being able to refer to samples and develop them according to each individual design project is a process that requires experimentation and creative thought underpinned by a basic understanding of sewing techniques. This book explores the essential equipment needed - from fabric types to diagrams identifying component parts of a sewing machine, to machine operation. Throughout each process, clear diagrams accompanied by explanatory description panels allow readers to achieve the best possible results, including how to troubleshoot problems that may be encountered before and during sewing. Each section concludes with a project, progressing from easy to challenging. Fabrics for each project give designers the opportunity to handle different fabric types and understand the complexities of sourcing and selecting. Mastering the basic principles covered in Sewing Techniques will enable both fashion students and the contemporary craftworker to develop their techniques with a view to becoming creative practice-based professionals.

An essential primer for students and first-stop reference for professionals, The Fashion Design Reference & Specification Booktakes the fashion designer through the entire design process, from conceiving a garment to marketing it. This valuable handbook contains the information and ideas essential to planning and executing fashion projects of every scale and distills them in an easy-to-use format that is compact enough to slip into a tote. Linking six central phases in the cycle of fashion—research, editing, design, construction, connection, and evolution—The Fashion Design Reference & Specification Book helps designers develop effective strategies for building a cohesive collection and communicating their vision. The Reference & Specification Book series from Rockport Publishers offers students and practicing professionals in a range of creative industries must-have information in their area of specialty in an up-to-date, concise handbook.

All fashion designers must have an understanding of fabrics and what their properties are to allow them to choose the right fabric for their designs. Basics Fashion Design 02- Textiles and Fashion by Jenny Udale is a guide to the use of textiles within fashion design. The book examines the entire process of creating and using fashion textiles. It discusses the practical processes involved, including information on fibre production, dyeing and finishing, as well as construction techniques such as weaving and knitting. Various surface treatments are explored, as well as the way in which colour and trend influences fashion and textiles. The book also includes a section in which fashion and textile designers discuss their production processes and how they use textiles in their work. This title is suitable for first year students of fashion design, textile and other fashion-related subjects, as well as professional creatives and those with an interest in the process of fashion design, from concept to execution, seeking to develop and improve their design skills.

Pattern Design: Fundamentals is an ideal book for beginners to the field of fashion design as well as self-guided learners. Pattern Design: Fundamentals covers the basics of pattern making, terminology and drafting concepts. This book is different than all other drafting books of its kind. This drafting book combines knowledge of drafting with sewing and construction. The best way to understand how patterns are drafted is to understand how the drafts are constructed, why certain pattern markings are used and in what order a pattern should be constructed. Understanding the construction, solidifies one’s drafting knowledge, connecting the dots of two-dimensional drafting to the three-dimensional finished garment. Pattern Design was developed by designer and educator Jennifer Lynne Matthews-Fairbanks. Fairbanks years of instructing at the Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising coupled with her years running her own design and sewing studio, make for the ideal combination of teaching to the visual and self-guided learner. Chapters 1 and 2 introduce you to the tools, terms and pattern markings, including fabrics used, grainlines of patterns and the grain of a fabric. You will create a simple pattern with all appropriate markings from an unaltered sloper and learn each part of all slopers used throughout the book. In the first section, “Shape,” Pattern Design walks you through manipulating darts with the pivot and slash and spread methods, creating pleats, tucks and gathers. Each chapter details the basics of construction in order to complete each exercise fully and utilizes several different slopers to show how each concept can be translated to different garment types. Section two, “Line,” covers style lines (also called seam lines) and combines style lines with design elements from the “Shape” section. The third section, “Details,” includes beginner design detail concepts such as pockets, extensions, collars and banding. Pocket exercises include patch pockets, in-seam pockets and inset pockets. Extensions for buttons and placket for blouses are also demonstrated. The banding chapter covers simple waistbands and sleeve cuffs. The forth and final section covers “Finishes.” Finishes include facings, zipper insertion and basic hemming. Pattern Design: Fundamentals covers the material that most fashion design students learn in their first year of schooling. The book is an ideal guide for self-learners or for classroom instruction.