Changing Chinese Foodways In Asia

Through the lens of Chinese food, the authors address recent theories in social science concerning cultural identity, ethnicity, boundary formation, consumerism and globalization, and the invention of local cuisine in the context of rapid culture change in East and Southeast Asia.

Chinese cuisine has had a deep impact on culinary traditions in Southeast Asia, where the lack of certain ingredients and access to new ingredients along with the culinary knowledge of local people led Chinese migrants to modify traditional dishes and to invent new foods. This process brought the cuisine of southern China, considered by some writers to be "the finest in the world," into contact with a wide range of local and global cuisines and ingredients. When Chinese from Southeast Asia moved on to other parts of the world, they brought these variants of Chinese food with them, completing a cycle of culinary reproduction, localization and invention, and globalization. The process does not end there, for the new context offers yet another set of ingredients and culinary traditions, and the "embedding and fusing of foods" continues, creating additional hybrid forms. Written by scholars whose deep familiarity with Chinese cuisine is both personal and academic, Chinese Food and Foodways in Southeast Asia and Beyond is a book that anyone who has been fortunate enough to encounter Southeast Asian food will savour, and it provides a window on this world for those who have yet to discover it.

Does Chinese food taste the same in different parts of the world? What has happened to the Chinese diet in mainland China, Taiwan, Hong Kong and Macau? What has affected the foodways of Chinese communities in other Asian countries with large Chinese diasporic communities? What has made Chinese food popular in Australia, Indonesia, the Philippines and Japan? What has brought about the adoption and adaptation of western food and changes in Chinese diets in Hong Kong, Taiwan and Peking? By considering the practice of globalization, this volume of essays by well-known anthropologists from many locales in Asia, describes changes, variations and innovations to Chinese food in many parts of the world, paying particular attention to questions related to how foods are introduced, maintained, localised and reinvented according to changing lifestyles and social tastes. The book reviews and broadens classic social science theories about ethnic and social identity formation through the examination of Chinese food and eating habits in many locations. It reveals surprising changes and provides a powerful testimony to the impact of late twentieth-century globalization.

By considering the practice of globalization, these essays describe changes, variations and innovations to Chinese food in many parts of the world. Reviews and broadens theories about ethnic and social identity formation.

Foods are changed not only by those who produce and supply them, but also by those who consume them. Analyzing food without considering changes over time and across space is less meaningful than analyzing it in a global context where tastes, lifestyles, and imaginations cross boundaries and blend with each other, challenging the idea of authenticity. A dish that originated in Beijing and is recreated in New York is not necessarily the same, because although authenticity is often claimed, the form, ingredients, or taste may have changed. The contributors of this volume have expanded the discussion of food to include its social and cultural meanings and functions, thereby using it as a way to explain a culture and its changes.

Offers a pioneering account of the history of chopsticks, charting their evolution in Asian food culture to the present day.

Food is an important cultural marker of identity in contemporary Asian societies, and can provide a medium for the understanding of social relations, family and kinship, class and consumption, gender ideology, and cultural symbolism. However, a truly comprehensive view of food cannot neglect the politics of food production, in particular, how, when, from where and even why different kinds of food are produced, prepared and supplied. Food and Foodways in Asia is an anthropological inquiry providing rich ethnographic description and analysis of food production as it interacts with social and political complexities in Asia’s diverse cultures. Prominent anthropologists examine how food is related to ethnic identity and boundary formation, consumerism and global food distribution, and the invention of local cuisine in the context of increasing cultural contact. With chapters ranging from the invention of 'local food' for tourism development, to Asia's contribution to ‘world cuisine,’ Food and Foodways in Asia will be a fascinating read for anyone interested in the anthropology of food and/or Asian studies.

The Chinese minority in Terengganu, Malaysia, are struggling to maintain their Sinic culture, identity and community in the face of socio-political changes and Islamisation since the early 1970s. They are also facing problems due to population attrition from an outflow of the younger generation to larger cities in Malaysia for jobs and further education. The acculturated Terengganu Peranakan Chinese, descendants of the earliest settlers who arrived at least two centuries ago, face additional inter-generational tensions and challenges. This book is based on extensive interviews and fieldwork and includes: an overview of the role of the Kuala Terengganu Chinese associations in promoting traditional Chinese culture and identity; a study of the Peranakan Chinese in Tirok, to further examine issues of identity maintenance and identity shift; and a comparison between the foodways of the Tirok Peranakan Chinese with a similar rural Peranakan community in the neighbouring state of Kelantan to demonstrate the community’s continual negotiation of Sino–Malay identity.