Developing A Sustainable Procurement Strategy For Fashion Buyers In The German Retail Sector

Inhaltsangabe:Introduction: 1.1 Subject and background: The global economic situation by its ever-changing business dynamics, such as ambiguities about the market, fierce competition, consumer behaviour and their changing preferences significantly increases Business Management responsibilities. Today as never before people are concerned with the environment and social issues; rapidly rising oil prices, increasing transparency and consumer interest in how products are made and where they come from, pressures Business Managers to create a more transparent and sustainable industry. Especially Purchasing Managers play a key role in using their procurement function to foster sustainable development. Referring to an international study that was carried out by Capgemini Consulting, sustainability efforts constitute the second important business driver on multiple supply chain agendas for 2010 (Haarman et al., 2009). Companies are rapidly adopting the term into their business or corporate social responsibility (CSR) reports. However, a review of the literature will show that the tem sustainability has been inconsistently defined. More specifically, most of the recent sustainability research has examined issues such as environment, human rights and safety in a standalone fashion (Seuring et al., 2008). Especially Purchasing Managers fail to take the emerged challenge of sustainability into a more integrative perspective: They often limit their purchasing policies on environmental considerations only. More precisely, there does not appear to be a corporate strategy that integrates environmental and social issues together into one purchasing plan. Hence, the sustainability challenges pressures Purchasing Managers to take the effect of their purchasing actions on the triple bottom line (TBL) into account, which refers to people, planet and profit. 1.2 Reason for choice of subject: The clothing and textile industry is massive. It is worth over US$1trillion worldwide, and contributes to 7% of world exports and employs nearly 26 million people (Tokatli, 2007). Paying a greater attention to fashion retailers, the high street dynamic pushed the retail prices for clothing extremely down. Sadly, consumers are demanding more of low price clothing and consequently fashion becomes more and more disposable. In lieu thereof silent sounds approach mainstream retailers; sounds from degrading working conditions in manufacturing facilities and threatening environmental [...]

This is the ground-breaking new book for aspiring purchasing and supply chain leaders and anyone with a keen interest in this rapidly evolving field. For too long business has focused on short-term cost advantages through low-cost country sourcing with little regard for the longer-term implications of global sustainability. As the first book to fully address the environmental, social and economic challenges of how companies manage purchasing and supply chains, it aims to inspire the development of current and future purchasing and supply chain leaders. In addition to explaining the basic principles and processes of both purchasing and supply chain management, the book evaluates how to develop strategic and sustainable purchasing and supply chain management. A key message is that purchasing and supply chain management needs to focus on value creation rather than cost cutting. This requires the development of completely new purchasing and supply chain models that involve closed-loop supply structures, supply chain transparency and collaboration with new stakeholders in traditional sourcing and supply chain processes. Aimed at students, educators and practitioners the book integrates sustainability into each chapter as a core element of purchasing and supply chain management. Incorporating case studies from industry into each chapter, the book strikes a balance between theoretical frameworks and guidelines for implementation in practice.

This handbook is a compilation of comprehensive reference sources that provide state-of-the-art findings on both theoretical and applied research on sustainable fashion supply chain management. It contains three parts, organized under the headings of “Reviews and Discussions,” “Analytical Research,” and “Empirical Research,” featuring peer-reviewed papers contributed by researchers from Asia, Europe, and the US. This book is the first to focus on sustainable supply chain management in the fashion industry and is therefore a pioneering text on this topic. In the fashion industry, disposable fashion under the fast fashion concept has become a trend. In this trend, fashion supply chains must be highly responsive to market changes and able to produce fashion products in very small quantities to satisfy changing consumer needs. As a result, new styles will appear in the market within a very short time and fashion brands such as Zara can reduce the whole process cycle from conceptual design to a final ready-to-sell “well-produced and packaged” product on the retail sales floor within a few weeks. From the supply chain’s perspective, the fast fashion concept helps to match supply and demand and lowers inventory. Moreover, since many fast fashion companies, e.g., Zara, H&M, and Topshop, adopt a local sourcing approach and obtain supply from local manufacturers (to cut lead time), the corresponding carbon footprint is much reduced. Thus, this local sourcing scheme under fast fashion would enhance the level of environmental friendliness compared with the more traditional offshore sourcing. Furthermore, since the fashion supply chain is notorious for generating high volumes of pollutants, involving hazardous materials in the production processes, and producing products by companies with low social responsibility, new management principles and theories, especially those that take into account consumer behaviours and preferences, need to be developed to address many of these issues in order to achieve the goal of sustainable fashion supply chain management. The topics covered include Reverse Logistics of US Carpet Recycling; Green Brand Strategies in the Fashion Industry; Impacts of Social Media on Consumers’ Disposals of Apparel; Fashion Supply Chain Network Competition with Eco-labelling; Reverse Logistics as a Sustainable Supply Chain Practice for the Fashion Industry; Apparel Manufacturers’ Path to World-class Corporate Social Responsibility; Sustainable Supply Chain Management in the Slow-Fashion Industry; Mass Market Second-hand Clothing Retail Operations in Hong Kong; Constraints and Drivers of Growth in the Ethical Fashion Sector: The case of France; and Effects of Used Garment Collection Programmes in Fast Fashion Brands.

EBOOK: Retail Marketing

The make-take-waste paradigm of fast fashion explains much of the producer and consumer behavior patterns towards fast fashion. The evolution from a two-season fashion calendar to fast fashion, characterized by rapid product cycles from retailers and impulse buying by consumers, presents new challenges to the environment, workplace and labour practices. This book provides a comprehensive overview of new insights into consumer behaviour mechanisms in order to shift practices toward sustainable fashion and to minimize the negative impacts of fast fashion on the environment and society. Concepts and techniques are presented that could overcome the formidable economic drivers of fast fashion and lead toward a future of sustainable fashion. While the need for change in the fashion industry post-Rana Plaza could not be more obvious, alternative and more sustainable consumption models have been under-investigated. The paucity of such research extends to highly consumptive consumer behaviours regarding fast fashion (i.e. impulse buying and throwaways) and the related impediments these behaviours pose for sustainable fashion. Written by leading researchers in the field of sustainable fashion and supported by the Textile Institute, this book evaluates fashion trends, what factors have led to new trends and how the factors supporting fast fashion differ from those of the past. It explores the economic drivers of fast fashion and what social, environmental and political factors should be maintained, and business approaches adopted, in order for fast fashion to be a sustainable model. In particular, it provides consumer behaviour concepts that can be utilized at the retail level to support sustainable fashion.

This book illustrates key sustainability issues in global textile and fashion value chains, by examining individual types of fibers either at a single step in or along the entire value chain. It approaches sustainability-related issues in the textile and fashion value chain from an interdisciplinary and holistic viewpoint, with each contribution linking questions on the textile and fashion value chain to various drivers, indicators and concepts of sustainability. Each chapter represents a single step in the textile and fashion value chain, exploring and considering a wide range of interwoven and interdependent technological, environmental, social, political and economic aspects. Various fibers, textile engineering and chemical treatment steps, as well as innovative business concepts and regulatory frameworks across the entire textile and fashion value chain are identified, analyzed, discussed and critically evaluated. The book provides a systematic overview of the potential and challenges of sustainable textile and fashion value chains, making it of interest to practitioners and scientists in sustainability science, environmental economics, and business, management and innovation. Further, it offers a valuable source of information for industrial and mechanical engineering researchers, and for students in the areas of textile engineering, fashion, or the apparel and clothing industry.