Grafting Budding

Grafting and Budding is an updated and expanded version of Grafting and Budding Fruit and Nut Trees and now includes the grafting of ornamental plants. It is a comprehensive and clearly written, practical guide on all of the grafting techniques the professional and home gardener is likely to need. The book begins with an introduction to vegetative propagation, which includes growing plants from cuttings as well as from grafts. It provides a brief history of the subject, explains how grafting works and shows why it is now the preferred technique for propagating most commercial plants. The following chapter introduces the reader to the tools that are needed and the basics of budding, grafting and multi-grafting. It gives step-by-step instructions for making grafts, advice on selecting scion wood, production and preparation of rootstocks and after-care of grafted plants. Separate chapters on budding and grafting describe the complete range of methods that can be used. The budding chapter covers T-budding, chip budding, patch budding and V-budding. The chapter on grafting covers the splice graft, wedge graft, whip and tongue graft, side graft, approach graft, seed grafting, grafting of herbaceous plants, machine bench grafting and top working established trees. The remainder of the book has separate entries discussing the preferred method of propagation for each of the plant species.

This historic book may have numerous typos and missing text. Purchasers can usually download a free scanned copy of the original book (without typos) from the publisher. Not indexed. Not illustrated. 1878 edition. Excerpt: ...slipped! Grafting with a Cutting for the Scion. In this method the scion only is a cutting, the stock is a tree which has been at least a year planted. It may be left entire or headed down at the time of grafting: and may be grafted either close to the ground or at some distance from it, under the surface of the soil or above it. Cutting-Grafting on a Low Stem. There are two principal methods based on the previous wnputation of the stem or otherwise. Here the stock is shortened to within 4 inches or 8 inches from the neck. We then take a scion-branch of sufficient length that when its extremity is buried in the soil as a cutting, close to the stock, it may be grafted on the stock, and have a couple of buds above the graft. The stock is channelled with the gouge and the bark is removed from that part of the scion which is to be placed in the groove. They are then bandaged and covered with mastic. When a vine is grafted in this way, the soil is heaped up about it so as to cover the graft. When the stem of the vine is young, or if it is furnished with vigorous shoots at the base, we have recourse to layer-grafting. A small trench or hole is made (B), in which the shoot is to be layered; the shoot to be grafted is then cut down to the third Layer-Grafting, eye (as at A). The other shoots of the same stock are removed, or cut short or grafted in the same way. The scion is grafted at A in the English fashion, then cut so as to leave two or three eyes over-ground, and fastened to a stake. Should the stock offer any resistance it can be pegged down in the bottom of the trench with a forked stick. The hole or trench (B) should then be filled with good free soil, which will facilitate the production of the new roots. Instead of previously...

This antiquarian book contains a detailed guide to gardening, with practicable information on grafting, cutting, and other aspects of budding. Complete with clear instructions, a wealth of interesting and practicable information, and a plethora of helpful illustrations, this is a text that will be of much value to the budding gardener. It will make for a great addition to any collection of vintage gardening literature. Many antique books such as this are becoming increasingly rare and expensive, and it is with this in mind that we are proudly republishing this text, now in an affordable modern edition.