Hydrodynamics Of Coastal Zones

This book discusses selected theoretical topics of coastal hydrodynamics, including basic principles and applications in coastal oceanography and coastal engineering. It is not intended as a handbook; the emphasis is placed on presentation of a number of basic problems, rather than giving detailed instructions for their application. The bulk of the material deals with surface waves. In the author's opinion there is still a strong need for a book on wave phenomena in the coastal waters, as general textbooks on sea surface dynamics focus most of their attention on the deep ocean. This book intends to fill this need by concentrating on the phenomena typical of the coastal zone. Based on lectures given at the Institute of Hydroengineering, Polish Academy of Sciences in Gdansk, the approach throughout is a combination of the theoretical and observational. A basic knowledge of ordinary and partial differential equations, as well as the statistical and spectral analysis of time series, is assumed. The reader should also be familiar with fundamental hydrodynamic concepts. The book comprises nine chapters. Governing equations and conservation laws are treated in Chapter 1, using the variational principles. The theory of regular surface waves is covered in Chapters 2 to 4. The nonlinear effect of wave train modulation and their breaking of beaches is examined in Chapter 5. Chapters 6 and 7 focus on the statistical and spectral treatment of waves induced by wind. Current generation and circulation pattern are the subject of Chapter 8, while sea level variations are examined in Chapter 9. References for further reading are given at the end of each chapter.

The coastal zone is the host to many human activities, which have significantly increased in the last decades. However, sea level rise and more frequent storm events severely affect beaches and coastal structures, with negative consequences and dramatic impacts on coastal communities. These aspects add to typical coastal problems, like flooding and beach erosion, which already leading to large economic losses and human fatalities. Modeling is thus fundamental for an exhaustive understanding of the nearshore region in the present and future environment. Innovative tools and technologies may help to better understand coastal processes in terms of hydrodynamics, sediment transport, bed morphology, and their interaction with coastal structures. This book collects several contributions focusing on nearshore dynamics, and span among several time and spatial scales using both physical and numerical approaches. The aim is to describe the most recent advances in coastal dynamics.

Following on the success of the first conference, the Wessex Institute of Technology is convening the Second International Conference on Physical Coastal Processes, Management and Engineering. This book contains papers to be presented at that Conference. Coastal zone dynamics involve distinctive features that stem from both near shore hydrodynamics, and the complex local behaviour of the atmosphere that is affected by the irregularity of the coastal topography and variations in land sea surface roughness and thermal properties. Complex interactions occur between the atmosphere, ocean and land, leading to large temporal and spatial differences in air-sea exchange processes and wind strength and direction. Recreational and tourism demand on coastal areas activities makes increased shore and beach protection necessary. Coastlines are often subjected to direct impact of wind, swell and storm wave activity. Many other physical phenomena, such as tides and associated currents, long waves and storm surges, also affect the dynamic behaviour of the coastal zone. With the increase in extreme events due to climate change, the role of extreme events in changing coastal zones needs to be considered. The International Conference will consider also of these and will cover such topics as: Wave modelling; Wave transformation hydrodynamics; Extreme events and sea level rise; Sea defences; Interaction between coastal defences and processes; Energy recovery; Hydrodynamic forces; Sediment transport and erosion; Pollution and dispersion; Planning and beach design; Coastal geomorphology; Coastal processes and navigation; Coastal processes and GIS; Bio-physical coastal processes; and Great Lakes problems. The book will be of interest to engineers and government officials involved with coastal zone management and development

Hydrodynamics and sedimentation in wave-dominated coastal environments