Kinetic Garment Construction

Fashion designers are presented with a range of methods and concepts for pattern cutting are presented, the main body of these methods, both traditional and contemporary, is predominately based on a theoretical approximation of the body that is derived from horizontal and vertical measurements of the body in an upright position: the tailoring matrix. As a consequence, there is a lack of interactive and dynamic qualities in methods connected to this paradigm of garment construction, from both expressional and functional perspectives. This work proposes and explores an alternative paradigm for pattern cutting that includes a new theoretical approximation of the body as well as a more kinetic method for garment construction that, unlike the prevalent theory and its related methods, takes as its point of origin the interaction between the anisotropic fabric and the biomechanical structure of the body. As such, the research conducted here is basic research, aiming to identify fundamental principles for garment construction. Based on some key principles found in the works of Geneviève Sevin-Doering and in pre-tailoring methods for constructing garments, the proposed theory for – and method of – garment construction was developed through concrete experiments by cutting and draping fabrics on live models. Instead of a static matrix of a non-moving body, the result is a kinetic construction theory of the body that is comprised of balance directions and key biomechanical points, along with an alternative draping method for dressmaking. This methodology challenges the fundamental relationship between dress, garment construction, and the body, working from the body outward, as opposed to the methods that are based on the prevalent paradigm of the tailoring matrix, which work from the outside toward the body. This alternative theory for understanding the body and the proposed method of working allows for diverse expressions and enhanced functional possibilities in dress.

Zero Waste Fashion Design combines research and practice to introduce a crucial sustainable fashion design approach. Written by two industry leading pioneers, Timo Rissanen and Holly McQuillan, the book offers flexible strategies and easy-to-master zero waste techniques to help you develop your own cutting edge fashion designs. Sample flat patterns and more than 20 exercises will reinforce your understanding of the zero waste fashion design process. Beautifully illustrated interviews with high-profile, innovative designers, including Winifred Aldrich, Rickard Lindqvist and Yeohlee Teng, show the stunning garments produced by zero waste fashion design. Featured topics include: The criteria for zero waste fashion design Manufacturing zero waste garments Adapting existing designs for zero waste Zero waste designing with digital technologies

This volume leads the reader through the essential stages of creating a garment, from pattern cutting and draping a mannequin, to finishing and haberdashery.

An indispensable primer for students and first-stop reference for professionals, Form, Fit, and Fashion guides the fashion designer through the entire design process, from conceiving a garment to marketing it. This handbook collects the information and ideas essential to planning and executing fashion projects of every scale and distills them in an easy-to-use format that is compact enough to slip into a tote. Linking six central phases in the cycle of fashion—research, editing, design, construction, connection, and evolution—Form, Fit, and Fashion will help designers to develop effective strategies for building a cohesive collection and communicating their vision.

Smart Clothes and Wearable Technology, Second Edition focuses on the design process, material selection, garment construction, and new production techniques for smart clothing. Building on the success of the previous edition, this book brings wearable technologies ever closer to market with its design-led approach to the integration of technologies into textiles. This design-led, cross-disciplinary approach to the development of hybrid processes ensures that results are both attractive and usable to wider audiences. The book will also help designers adapt their product development processes in response to novel textile and garment manufacturing technologies. Case studies showing best practices and warning of pitfalls help the reader develop applications and products in the real world. The differences between testing and design for smart and traditional clothes are also discussed. Features new chapters on textile processes including knit, weave, print and embroidery for specialist Smart Clothing and footwear applications, as well as for personal protection Provides an update on current applications and investigates possible future developments in the integration of technology into clothing Raises important issues around end-of-life and disposal of smart clothing and wearable technologies

The interplay of electronic textiles and wearable technology, wearables for short, and fashion, design and science is a highly promising and topical subject. Offered here is a compact survey of the theory involved and an explanation of the role technology plays in a fabric or article of clothing. The practical application is explained in detail and numerous illustrations serve as clarification. Over 50 well-known designers, research institutes, companies and artists, among them Philips, Burton, MIT Media Lab, XS Labs, New York University, Hussein Chalayan, Cute Circuit or International Fashion Machines are introduced by means of their latest, often still unpublished, project, and a survey of their work to date. Given for the first time is a list of all the relevant information on research institutes, materials, publications etc. A must for all those wishing to know everything about fashionable technology.