The Dynamics Of Coastal Models

Textbook for graduate students and an introduction for researchers to coastal basins through simple hydrodynamics.

This collection contains 109 papers presented at the Fourth Conference on Coastal Dynamics, held in Lund, Sweden, June 11-15, 2001.

The book provides a comprehensive and up-to-date overview of the physical processes which, according to the present state of knowledge, determine the evolution of coastal systems and their response to human interventions. This response depends to a large degree on the self-organising properties of coastal dynamics, which form a leading theme throughout the book. The basic theoretical ideas are explained in text and figures and also in formulas for the more mathematically inclined reader. Theories are illustrated with examples from estuaries, coastal lagoons, beaches and tidal flat systems from all over the world. The rules and simple models can be used directly without relying on complex computations; much attention is given to the strengths and weaknesses of the underlying theories and their limits of applicability. The book is fully self-contained; some knowledge of basic physics and mathematics is recommended. The book is an upgrade of the first edition. Most parts are rewritten and chapters are added to incorporate research results, new insight and experience of the past ten years. This book is intended for everyone interested in coastal systems for professional or educational reasons.

This book unifies and enhances the accessibility of contemporary scholarly research on advances in coastal modeling. A comprehensive spectrum of innovative models addresses the wide diversity and multifaceted aspects of coastal research on the complex natural processes, dynamics, interactions and responses of the coastal supersystem and its associated subsystems. The twenty-one chapters, contributed by internationally recognized coastal experts from fourteen countries, provide invaluable insights on the recent advances and present state-of-the-art knowledge on coastal models which are essential for not only illuminating the governing coastal process and various characteristics, but also for understanding and predicting the dynamics at work in the coastal system. One of the unique strengths of the book is the impressive and encompassing presentation of current functional and operational coastal models for all those concerned with and interested in the modeling of seas, oceans and coasts. In addition to chapters modeling the dynamic natural processes of waves, currents, circulatory flows and sediment transport there are also chapters that focus on the modeling of beaches, shorelines, tidal basins and shore platforms. The substantial scope of the book is further strengthened with chapters concentrating on the effects of coastal structures on nearshore flows, coastal water quality, coastal pollution, coastal ecological modeling, statistical data modeling, and coupling of coastal models with geographical information systems.

"Provides an integrated approach to coastal dynamics and shoreline protection, aided by the use of specific case studies" -- Back cover.

Laboratory physical models are a valuable tool for coastal engineers. Physical models help us to understand the complex hydrodynamic processes occurring in the nearshore zone and they provide reliable and economic engineering design solutions.This book is about the art and science of physical modeling as applied in coastal engineering. The aim of the book is to consolidate and synthesize into a single text much of the knowledge about physical modeling that has been developed worldwide.This book was written to serve as a graduate-level text for a course in physical modeling or as a reference text for engineers and researchers engaged in physical modeling and laboratory experimentation. The first three chapters serve as an introduction to similitude and physical models, covering topics such as advantages and disadvantages of physical models, systems of units, dimensional analysis, types of similitude and various hydraulic similitude criteria applicable to coastal engineering models.Practical application of similitude principles to coastal engineering studies is covered in Chapter 4 (Hydrodynamic Models), Chapter 5 (Coastal Structure Models) and Chapter 6 (Sediment Transport Models). These chapters develop the appropriate similitude criteria, discuss inherent laboratory and scale effects and overview the technical literature pertaining to these types of models. The final two chapters focus on the related subjects of laboratory wave generation (Chapter 7) and measurement and analysis techniques (Chapter 8).

The importance of models to facilitate our understanding and management of the coastal system is evident from this book, which shows that the preference for using models to study the coastal system is shared not only by different research institutions (government, military, industry and academia), but also by researchers from diverse backgrounds. With contributions from several leading experts a variety of models - physical, analytical, numerical and computer simulation - are presented on various components of the coastal system. The book opens by examining the coast as a system, and provides an overview of models, systems concepts, and the systems approach. It next covers the simulation design process, stressing that modeling and simulation should form an interface between real-world processes, and the field of General Systems Theory. It is clearly shown that a system can be investigated with more than one type of model. For example, it is shown that waves can be studied with physical models, empirical and numerical models or with computer simulation models. Likewise, beaches can be investigated with physical, numerical or empirically-based models. The indispensability of models to enhance our understanding of coastal dynamics and associated component systems is emphasised. Mathematical modeling of rock coast development and the simulation of deltaic depositional systems are covered. A chapter on analytical modeling of predator-prey interactions highlights the fact that the coastal system also has biotic resources. Finally, problems which have to be overcome for the practical application of numerical and simulation models are discussed. The explanatory and detailed formulation of the various models, together with more than 100 figures, make this book worthwhile reading for senior undergraduates, graduate students, and all coastal researchers interested in the formulation and application of models of the coastal system.