Advances In Coastal And Ocean Engineering Vol 5

In the last two decades, one of the most important research accomplishments in coastal hydrodynamics has been the development of accurate numerical models for nonlinear water wave propagation over a complex bathymetry from a relatively deep-water depth into the surf zone. This book contains five excellent papers reviewing different methodologies in various aspects of wave modeling; the authors are active researchers who have made original contributions to these subjects.

This invaluable volume consists of five articles covering a wide range of topics in coastal engineering. The reader can find a paper discussing the modern optical measurement techniques applied to wave studies. An introductory paper on wavelet theory provides readers with a new perspective on coastal and ocean engineering data analysis. For those who are interested in wave modeling, a review article on the stochastic evolution models is included. A detailed review paper on the recent sediment transport research should supply enough motivation for more research in this area. Finally, readers who are interested in history can find an interesting article reviewing the coastal development and coastal engineering activities in Japanese history. Contents:History of Coastal Engineering in Japan (K Horikawa)Wavelet Transform and New Perspective on Coastal and Ocean Engineering Data Analysis (P C Liu)Stochastic Evolution Models for Nonlinear Gravity Waves Over Uneven Topography (Y Agnon & A Sheremet)Sediment Transport in Oscillatory Sheet Flow (T Asano)Optical Studies of Wave Kinematics (C A Greated & N Emarat) Readership: Graduate students and researchers in civil and ocean engineering; and engineers. Keywords:Coastal Engineering;Wavelet;Waves;Flow;Wave Kinematics;Beach Erosion;Coastal Environment;Coastal Process;Nearshore Current;Observation Pier;Sediment Transport;Storm Surge;Tsunami;Wave Mechanics;Nonlinear Shoaling;Stochastic Waves

This review volume, the third in the series, presents the latest topics for discussion, which provides invaluable information to coastal and ocean engineers around the world. In the first paper of this volume, entitled ?Internal Solitary Waves?, Grimshaw reviews the basic theory of weakly nonlinear waves in an incompressible density-stratified fluid. The internal solitary waves solutions and effects such as friction, refraction and finite amplitude on internal solitary waves are also discussed. In the second paper entitled ?The 3/2-Power Law for Ocean Wind Waves and Its Applications?, Toba gives a thorough review on the field evidence and physical background of the 3/2-power law and the associated wind-wave energy spectra. Several wind-wave prediction models are also discussed. Goda, in his paper entitled ?Directional Wave Spectrum and Its Engineering Applications?, gives a brief historical overview of the development of directional wave spectrum. He presents several standard formulas for directional spreading function for engineering applications and discusses the effects of directional spreading on nearshore currents and wave forces on coastal structures. In a companion paper entitled ?Analysis of the Directional Wave Spectrum from Field Data?, Hashimoto describes the maximum entropy principle method, Bayesian directional spectrum estimation method and the extended maximum entropy method for estimating directional wave spectrum. Hashimoto also introduces a new developed Doppler-type directional wave meter for field measurements. Finally, in ?Reliability-Based Design of Coastal Structures?, Barcharth introduces a design procedure that makes it possible to optimize a design and/or to design to a specific failure probability level.

Nonlinear modulation of water waves / Maarten Dingemans and Ashwini Otta -- Bubble measurement techniques and bubble dynamics in coastal shallow water / Ming-Yang Su and Joel C. Wesson -- Simulation of waves in harbors using two-dimensional elliptic equation models / Vijay Panchang and Z. Demirbilek -- Recent advances in the modeling of wave and permeable structure interaction / Inigo J. Losada -- Descriptive hydrodynamics of lock-exchange flows / Harry Yeh and Kiyoshi Wada.

This invaluable volume consists of five articles covering a wide range of topics in coastal oceanographic engineering. The reader can find an article discussing the modern bubble measurement techniques applied to field studies of bubble dynamics in coastal shallow water. A comprehensive review paper on nonlinear modulation of water waves provides readers with a new perspective on nonlinear processes in the coastal and ocean wave environment. For those who are interested in wave modeling, there are two review articles discussing various wave models, which can be used to study wave-structure interactions and harbor oscillations. Finally, readers who are interested in the subject of stratified flows can find an article presenting the detailed laboratory observations of lock-exchange flows.

Ch. 1. Model for fully nonlinear ocean wave simulations derived using Fourier inversion of integral equations in 3D / J. Grue and D. Fructus -- ch. 2. Two-dimensional direct numerical simulations of the dynamics of rogue waves under wind action / J. Touboul and C. Kharif -- ch. 3. Progress in fully nonlinear potential flow modeling of 3D extreme ocean waves / S.T. Grilli [und weitere] -- ch. 4. Time domain simulation of nonlinear water waves using spectral methods / F. Bonnefoy [und weitere] -- ch. 5. QALE-FEM method and its application to the simulation of free-responses of floating bodies and overturning waves / Q.W. Ma and S. Yan -- ch. 6. Velocity calculation methods in finite element based MEL formulation / V. Sriram, S.A. Sannasiraj and V. Sundar -- ch. 7. High-order Boussinesq-type modelling of nonlinear wave phenomena in deep and shallow water / P.A. Madsen and D.R. Fuhrman -- ch. 8. Inter-comparisons of different forms of higher-order Boussinesq equations / Z.L. Zou, K.Z. Fang and Z.B. Liu -- ch. 9. Method of fundamental solutions for fully nonlinear water waves / D.-L. Young, N.-J. Wu and T.-K. Tsay -- ch. 10. Application of the finite volume method to the simulation of nonlinear water waves / D. Greaves -- ch. 11. Developments in multi-fluid finite volume free surface capturing method / D.M. Causon, C.G. Mingham and L. Qian -- ch. 12. Numerical computation methods for strongly nonlinear wave-body interactions / M. Kashiwagi, C. Hu and M. Sueyoshi -- ch. 13. Smoothed particle hydrodynamics for water waves / R.A. Dalrymple [und weitere] -- ch. 14. Modelling nonlinear water waves with RANS and LES SPH models / R. Issa [und weitere] -- ch. 15. MLPG_R method and Its application to various nonlinear water waves / Q.W. Ma -- ch. 16. Large Eddy simulation of the hydrodynamics generated by breaking waves / P. Lubin and J.-P. Caltagirone -- ch. 17. Recent advances in turbulence modeling for unsteady breaking waves / Q. Zhao and S.W. Armfield -- ch. 18. Freak waves and their interaction with ships and offshore structures / G.F. Clauss

This volume consists of five excellent review papers. In the first paper, “A Review of Coastal Wave Modeling: The Physical and Mathematical Problems”, N E Huang presents a summary of the state-of-the-art of wave modeling in deep waters. He points out several shortcomings in existing modeling approaches and expresses the urgent need for developing a statistical theory of surface waves in shallow waters. Huang believes that the statistical theory can be formulated as the soliton turbulence. He also points out other important issues in wave modeling, including the air-sea interaction processes, and the physics of the wave-current and dissipation processes. In the second paper A C Radder focuses his discussion on the “Hamiltonian Dynamics of Water Waves”. He demonstrates that the Hamiltonian theory of surface waves can be formulated in terms of surface elevation and the velocity potential at the free surface as canonical variables. Several evolution equations, can be readily obtained. Radder also points out the need to develop a stochastic wave model in the shallow-water environment. The maximum runup is arguably the single most important parameter in the design of coastal structures and for the evaluation of the inundation potential of storm surges and tsunamis. C E Synolakis presents a thorough review of the “Exact Solutions of Shallow-Water Wave Equations”. For a single sloping beach, the evolution and runup of solitary, dipole, N and cnoidal waves are discussed. These solutions are then extended to more practical problems. The last two papers concern the flow and sediment motions near the seafloor. In their paper, “Boundary Layer and Sediment Dynamics Under Sea Waves”, P Blondeaux and G Vittori give an expert review of the recent contributions on the understanding of the interaction of the coherent vortex with cohesionless or partially cohesive sediments in a boundary layer. The formation and development of small-scale bedforms in the coastal regions are also discussed. Finally, in “Wave Scour Around Structures”, B M Sumer and J Fredsøe review the scouring processes around various types of structures. Many recent experimental data and theoretical developments are presented. Contents:A Review of Coastal Wave Modeling: The Physical and Mathematical Problems (N E Huang)Hamiltonian Dynamics of Water Waves (A C Radder)Exact Solutions of the Shallow-Water Wave Equations (C E Synolakis)Boundary Layer and Sediment Dynamics under Sea Waves (P Blondeaux & G Vittori)Wave Scour Around Structures (B M Sumer & J Fredsøe) Readership: Graduate students, engineers and researchers. keywords:Scour;Waves;Marine Structures;Coastal Structures;Erosion;Sediment Transport;Pipelines;Piles;Bridge Piers;Self Burial;Turbulent Oscillatory Boundary Layer;Sea Ripples;Coherent Vortices;Mass Transport Under Sea Waves;Sheet Flows