Fashionability Exhibition Culture And Gender Politics

Fair Women was the Victorian equivalent of a ‘blockbuster’ exhibition. Organised by a committee of women, it opened to great fanfare in the Grafton Galleries in London, and was comprised of both historical and contemporary portraits of women as well as decorative objects. Meaghan Clarke argues that the exhibition challenged contemporary assumptions about the representation of women and the superficiality of female collectors. The Fair Women phenomenon complicated gender stereotypes and foregrounded women as cultural arbiters. This book uncovers a wide range of texts and images to reveal that Fair Women brought together fashion, modernity and gender politics in new and surprising ways. It shows that, while invariably absent in institutional histories, women were vital to the development of the modern blockbuster exhibition. This book will be of interest to scholars in art and gender studies, museum studies, feminist art history, women artists and art history.

From chatelaines to whale blubber, ice making machines to stained glass, this six-volume collection will be of interest to the scholar, student or general reader alike - anyone who has an urge to learn more about Victorian things. The set brings together a range of primary sources on Victorian material culture and discusses the most significant developments in material history from across the nineteenth century. The collection will demonstrate the significance of objects in the everyday lives of the Victorians and addresses important questions about how we classify and categorise nineteenth-century things. This collection brings together a range of primary sources on Victorian material and culture. This volume, ‘Fashionable Things’, will focus on Victorian fads and fashions ranging from chatelains to insect jewellery.

This book explores the work and careers of women, trans, and third-gender artists engaged in political activism. While some artists negotiated their own political status in their indigenous communities, others responded to global issues of military dictatorship, racial discrimination, or masculine privilege in regions other than their own. Women, trans, and third-gender artists continue to highlight and challenge the disturbing legacies of colonialism, imperialism, capitalism, communism, and other political ideologies that are correlated with patriarchy, primogeniture, sexism, or misogyny. The book argues that solidarity among such artists remains valuable and empowering for those who still seek legitimate recognition in art schools, cultural institutions, and the history curriculum.

This book explores the relationship between collecting Chinese ceramics, interior design and display in Britain through the eyes of collectors, designers and tastemakers during the years leading to, during and following the Second World War. The Ionides Collection of European style Chinese export porcelain forms the nucleus of this study – defined by its design hybridity – offering insights into the agency of Chinese porcelain in diverse contexts, from seventeenth-century Batavia to twentieth-century Britain, raising questions about notions of Chineseness, Britishness, and identity politics across time and space. Through the biographies of the collectors, this book highlights the role of collecting Chinese art objects, particularly porcelain, in the construction of individual and group identities. Social networks linking the Ionides to agents and dealers, auctioneers, and museum specialists bring into focus the dynamics of collecting during this period, the taste of the Ionides and their self-fashioning as collectors. The book will be of interest to scholars working in the fields of art history, history of collections, interior design, Chinese studies, and material culture studies.

Through both longer essays and shorter case studies, this book examines the relationship of European women from various countries and backgrounds to collecting, in order to explore the social practices and material and visual cultures of collecting in eighteenth-century Europe. It recovers their lives and examines their interests, their methodologies, and their collections and objects—some of which have rarely been studied before. The book also considers women’s role as producers, that is, creators of objects that were collected. Detailed examination of the artefacts—both visually, and in relation to their historical contexts—exposes new ways of thinking about collecting in relation to the arts and sciences in eighteenth-century Europe. The book is interdisciplinary in its makeup and brings together scholars from a wide range of fields. It will be of interest to those working in art history, material and visual culture, history of collecting, history of science, literary studies, women’s studies, gender studies, and art conservation.

This book examines British collectors of so-called Persian art (a broad umbrella term then covering a large portion of Islamic art) in the late 19th century, including ceramics, metalwork, carpets, textiles and woodwork. Based on a foundational event, the very first exhibition of “Persian and Arab Art” held by a London Gentlemen’s Club in 1885, this book follows one generation of men, retracing the subtle shades of difference among “amateurs,” “connoisseurs,” “experts” and “collectors,” and exploring all the mechanisms of the construction of a collective fascination for the Orient. Isabelle Gadoin uncovers some of the first “scientific” analyses of Islamic objects and of the first private notebooks or exhibition catalogues, to provide an in-depth study of the way Westerners talked about Islamic objects and began to define what would become Islamic art history. All the while, Gadoin unravels the skein of Western prejudice, Romantic fancy, sincere admiration and ruthless appropriation, in art collecting, to write a new chapter of Orientalist history. The book will be of interest to scholars working in art history, history of collecting, colonialism and postcolonialism, and Orientalism.

While earlier studies have focused predominantly on artist François Boucher’s artistic style and identity, this book presents the first full-length interdisciplinary study of Boucher’s prolific collection of around 13,500 objects including paintings, sculpture, prints, drawings, porcelain, shells, minerals, and other imported curios. It discusses the types of objects he collected, the networks through which he acquired them, and their spectacular display in his custom-designed studio at the Louvre, where he lived and worked for nearly two decades. This book explores the role his collection played in the development of his art, his studio, his friendships, and the burgeoning market for luxury goods in mid-eighteenth-century France. In doing so, it sheds new light on the relationship between Boucher’s artistic and collecting practices, which attracted both praise and criticism from period observers. The book will appeal to scholars working in art history, museum studies, and French history.

The correspondence of Joanna and George Boyce, and Joanna's husband Henry Wells (published as The Boyce Papers) gives us a rare insight into the milieu of the artists of the mid-Victorian period. Many different aspects of mid-nineteenth century artistic life are recorded in their letters, providing surprising detail which is highly relevant to the study of their contemporaries. Victorian Artists and their World is a series of case studies based on this material. This book brings together a team of authors both well-established in their fields and emerging, offering a broad range of expertise and insight. The first group of essays begins with travel, particularly in Europe where the new railroads made journeys much easier than in the past, particularly to the new museums being created in European cities. All three of them went to Paris and other European cities, while George Boyce also travelled in the French countryside to find new subjects for his art. Paris was also where Henry Wells and Joanna Boyce trained, but there is also a great deal of material about art training in Britain. The Boyces began essentially as financially independent amateurs, and were gradually drawn in to the increasingly institutional world of art, with the formation of new societies and the activities of commercial galleries. The next stage in an artist's career, involvement with the art market, is a continuing theme in the correspondence, 'the quirks and eccentricities of patrons and art dealers'. Studios, clubs and societies all played a part in this process, while Henry Wells, as a portrait painter, dealt directly with his often wayward clients. It was also a period of great changes in the painting materials available to artists, and there are questions in the letters such as 'Does indigo fly?', referring to a long established colour. The survival of two of Joanna Boyce's paintboxes means that her use of newer artists' materials could be investigated, along with the problems they could cause, - several of Joanna Boyce's paintings deteriorated rapidly because of the use of new materials. A second group of essays looks at the place of women in the art world, as reflected in Joanna Boyce's career. While she did not belong to the campaigners who were creating a space for women artists, including the formation of the Society of Female Artists in 1857, she was very much aware of what they stood for, as is evident from her paintings, and also from her art criticism, which was praised by Ruskin; her writing for the Saturday Review remains vivid and impressive even today. The correspondence comes to an end with Joanna Boyce's untimely death, but the three final essays deal with the longer careers of George Boyce and Henry Wells. George Boyce moved in the different world of the watercolour artists, with the Old Watercolour Society at its centre, and was until recently the best known of the trio. His place in this world is the subject of one essay; another shows him as an important art collector; there is a complete record of the sale of the collection after his death which enables us to see the range of his interests. Finally, there is a collaborative study of the career of Henry Wells, which extended from miniatures of the early Victorian era into the twentieth century and a handful of paintings of modern life. The effect of photography led him to change from miniatures to formal portraiture in the 1850s, and he was a very active if rather conservative member of the Royal Academy towards the end of his life. This multi-facetted volume is a valuable set of case studies on topics which are not often treated on their own, but which are very relevant to Victorian art. They remind us that there is much more to this period than the Pre-Raphaelites, and that other movements, (such as the Aesthetic painters who were an important influence on Joanna Boyce's art) flourished in their shade. Edited by Katie J T Herrington. Contributors: Sue Bradbury, Meaghan Clarke, Louise Cooling, Pamela Gerrish Nunn, Alicia Hughes, Christiana Payne, Mark Pomeroy, Matthew Potter, Joyce Townsend, and Glenda Youde.