Poiret Dior And Schiaparelli

Through a highly original and detailed analysis of the memoirs, interviews and other life writings of Poiret, Dior and Schiaparelli, this book explores changing notions of femininity in the early decades of the twentieth century, when the democratization of fashion began. Examining the idea of modernity, eternity and the ephemeral in the writings of these haute couturiers, the book reflects on fashion's ambivalent approach to women, which both celebrated and vilified them, presenting them as both ultra modern style leaders and irrational creatures stuck in the past. This fascinating text is key reading for scholars and students of fashion, gender studies, cultural studies and history.

Through a highly original and detailed analysis of the memoirs, interviews and other life writings of Poiret, Dior and Schiaparelli, this book explores changing notions of femininity in the early decades of the twentieth century, when the democratization of fashion began. Examining the idea of modernity, eternity and the ephemeral in the writings of these haute couturiers, the book reflects on fashion's ambivalent approach to women, which both celebrated and vilified them, presenting them as both ultra modern style leaders and irrational creatures stuck in the past. This fascinating text is key reading for scholars and students of fashion, gender studies, cultural studies and history.

"I thought I knew almost everything about the history of fashion until I met Kerry Taylor. The inside-out knowledge she has of garments will inspire both students and designers to look at fashion with fresh eyes." - Sarah Mower, US Vogue "This beautiful book by Kerry Taylor - the go-to woman for vintage and antique couture - is a treat for collectors and fashion lovers alike." - The Wall Street Journal "Whatever my question about vintage, Kerry Taylor has the answer. Her expertise, knowledge and historical anecdotes have raised the level of interest in this subject hugely." -Lisa Armstrong, Daily Telegraph Named one of Glamour Magazine's "Must-Read Style Books"! Profiled by Vogue and The New York Times and courted by style icons with wardrobes to sell and top designers in search of inspiration, Kerry Taylor is one of the world's leading experts on vintage fashion and couture. In this lavishly illustrated book, Kerry tells the story of a century of fashion through the work of its key design talents and the memorable women who have worn their creations. All the fashion stars are here from Poiret to McQueen via Lanvin, Chanel, Schiaparelli, Madame Grès, Dior, Balenciaga, Mary Quant, Ossie Clark, Vivienne Westwood, Alaïa, and Margiela. For each designer Kerry explores their career through a dazzling range of clothes and accessories, explaining what makes each item so desirable to the collector or wearer of vintage fashion. Each chapter includes at least one 'style icon' whose relationship with fashion has had a lasting impact, including Baba D'Erlanger, Lauren Bacall, Grace Kelly, Catherine Deneuve, Paloma Picasso and Kate Moss. Illustrated with a mix of gorgeous fashion photography plus images from Kerry's own astonishing archive, this book is set to become an invaluable guide for collectors of vintage (whatever their budget) and all those who love fashion. Contents includes... Foreword by Hubert de Givenchy Prologue by Christopher Kane 1900s - Paul Poiret - Lucile - Mariano Fortuny 1920s - Jean Patou - Jeanne Lavin - Chanel in the Twenties 1930s - Elsa Schiaparelli - Style Icon Wallis Simpson - Madeleine Vionnet - The Architect of Couture 1940s - The effects of War on Fashion in Europe - American Fashion in the Forties - Christian Dior - The Saviour of French Haute Couture 1950s - Pierre Balmain - Cristóbal Balenciaga - The Master - Style Icon Grace Kelly 1960s - Mary Quant - Hubert de Givenchy - Style Icon Audrey Hepburn 1970s - Yves Saint Laurent in the Seventies - Zandra Rhodes - Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren 1980s - Italian Masters - Azzedine Alaïa - John Galliano 1990s - The New Romantics - Thierry Mugler - Style Icon Kate Moss 2000s - Later McQueen - Style Icon Daphne Guinness - Collecting Vintage ..And so much more!

Late legendary couturiers of modern fashion speaking eloquently about life, design, and inspiration. Vionnet, Chanel, Dior, Saint Laurent, McQueen—these names define haute couture, and long after the designers have passed away, their influence on fashion continues to be profound. In an exceptional compilation of the original words of these couturiers, Couture Confessions provides a unique and in-depth look at the lives and work of these fashion icons. In this engaging, beautifully designed book, Pamela Golbin, acclaimed chief curator of twentieth-century fashion and textiles at Paris’s Musée des Arts Décoratifs, has ingeniously constructed conversations in the designers’ own words that highlight their compelling personal stories as well as essential fashion "moments"—from designers Paul Poiret, Cristóbal Balenciaga, Madame Grès, Alexander McQueen, Madeleine Vionnet, and Gabrielle Chanel to Elsa Schiaparelli, Yves Saint Laurent, Jeanne Lanvin, Pierre Balmain, and Christian Dior.Featuring striking illustrations by internationally recognized illustrator Yann Legendre, each "interview" asks the questions every fashion lover has always wanted to ask, making these legends approachable, human, and ever more inspiring.

Since Charles Fredrick Worth established his luxurious Maison de Couture in 1858, the interior has played a crucial role in the display of fashion. House of Fashion provides a full historical account of the interplay between fashion and the modern interior, demonstrating how they continue to function as a site for performing modern, gendered identities for designers and their clientele alike. In doing so, it traces how designers including Poiret, Vionnet, Schiaparelli and Dior used commercial spaces and domestic interiors to enhance their credentials as connoisseurs of taste and style. Taking us from the early years of haute couture to the luxury fashion of the present day, Berry explores how the salon, the atelier and the boutique have allowed fashion to move beyond the aesthetics of dress, to embrace the visual seduction of the theatrical, artistic, and the exotic. From the Art Deco allure of Coco Chanel's Maison to the luminous spaces of contemporary flagship stores, House of Fashion sets out fashion's links with key figures in architecture and design, including Louis Süe, Robert Mallet-Stevens, Eileen Gray, and Jean-Michel Frank. Drawing on photographs, advertisements, paintings and illustrations, this interdisciplinary study examines how fashionable interiors have shaped our understanding of architecture, dress, and elegance.

Scholarly interest in Art Deco has grown rapidly over the past fifty years, spanning different academic disciplines. This volume provides a guide to the current state of the field of Art Deco research by highlighting past accomplishments and promising new directions. Chapters are presented in five sections based on key concepts: migration, public culture, fashion, politics, and Art Deco’s afterlife in heritage restoration and new media. The book provides a range of perspectives on and approaches to these issues, as well as to the concept of Art Deco itself. It highlights the slipperiness of Art Deco yet points to its potential to shed new light on the complexities of modernity.

"The first biography of the grand couturier, surrealist, and embattled figure (her medium was apparel), whose extraordinary work has stood the test of time"--

Gabrielle Chanel - Christian Dior - Pierre Cardin - Yves Saint Laurent - Valentino - Elsa Schiaparelli.