Politics Of Fashion In Eighteenth Century America

The Politics of Fashion in Eighteenth-Century America

In eighteenth-century America, fashion served as a site of contests over various forms of gendered power. Here, Kate Haulman explores how and why fashion--both as a concept and as the changing style of personal adornment--linked gender relations, social order, commerce, and political authority during a time when traditional hierarchies were in flux. In the see-and-be-seen port cities of Boston, New York, Philadelphia, and Charleston, fashion, a form of power and distinction, was conceptually feminized yet pursued by both men and women across class ranks. Haulman shows that elite men and women in these cities relied on fashion to present their status but also attempted to undercut its ability to do so for others. Disdain for others' fashionability was a means of safeguarding social position in cities where the modes of dress were particularly fluid and a way to maintain gender hierarchy in a world in which women's power as consumers was expanding. Concerns over gendered power expressed through fashion in dress, Haulman reveals, shaped the revolutionary-era struggles of the 1760s and 1770s, influenced national political debates, and helped to secure the exclusions of the new political order.

Examines struggles over social, economic, and political power in eighteenth-century Philadelphia and New York City through the lens of fashion. Utilizing printed materials, merchant accounts and correspondence, personal documents, and costume histories, the author demonstrates that relations between the sexes served as a primary site for and an instrument in contests over cultural authority in British North America. Display and consumption helped forge social and romantic connections, yet also proved crucial to the smooth diplomatic and economic functioning of the British empire. The growing emphasis on cultivating inner worth rather than external trappings presented a paradox for colonial elites: How could one's character be known without some sort of display, be it adherence to fashion or its equally obvious repudiation? Such questions became particularly vexing during the imperial crises of the Revolutionary era, which vested Scottish Enlightenment and Quaker concepts of modesty, frugality, virtue, and sensibility with new political, anti-imperial meaning.

'Luxury in the 18th Century' explores the political, economic, moral and intellectual effects of the production and consumption of luxury goods, and provides a broadly-based account from a variety of perspectives, addressing key themes of economic debate, material culture, the principles of art and taste, luxury as 'female vice' and the exotic.

The Galerie des Modes has been called the "most beautiful collection in existence on the fashions of the 18th century." Here are 64 of the finest plates, reproduced by costume historian Stella Blum.

"The term "macaroni" was once as familiar a label as "punk" or "hipster" is today. In this handsomely illustrated book devoted to notable 18th-century British male fashion, award-winning author and fashion historian Peter McNeil brings together dress, biography, and historical events with the broader visual and material culture of the late 18th century. For thirty years, macaroni was a highly topical word, yielding a complex set of social, sexual, and cultural associations. Pretty Gentlemen is grounded in surviving dress, archival documents, and art spanning hierarchies and genres, from scurrilous caricature to respectful portrait painting. Celebrities hailed and mocked as macaroni include politician Charles James Fox, painter Richard Cosway, freed slave Julius "Soubise," and criminal parson Reverend Dodd. The style also rapidly spread to neighboring countries in cross-cultural exchange, while Horace Walpole, George III, and Queen Charlotte were active critics and observers of these foppish men."--Publisher's website.

Throughout the collection, there is an emphasis on the ways in which clothing could function to appropriate, explore, subvert, and assert alternative identities and possibilities."--BOOK JACKET.

This timely reissue of Richard Hofstadter's classic work on the fringe groups that influence American electoral politics offers an invaluable perspective on contemporary domestic affairs.In The Paranoid Style in American Politics, acclaimed historian Richard Hofstadter examines the competing forces in American political discourse and how fringe groups can influence — and derail — the larger agendas of a political party. He investigates the politics of the irrational, shedding light on how the behavior of individuals can seem out of proportion with actual political issues, and how such behavior impacts larger groups. With such other classic essays as “Free Silver and the Mind of 'Coin' Harvey” and “What Happened to the Antitrust Movement?, ” The Paranoid Style in American Politics remains both a seminal text of political history and a vital analysis of the ways in which political groups function in the United States.