Sapeurs

British photographer Tariq Zaidi presents a fashion subculture of Kinshasa & Brazzaville: La Sape, Societe des Ambianceurs et des Personnes Elegantes. Its followers are known as 'Sapeurs' ('Sapeuses' for women). Most have ordinary day jobs as taxi-drivers, tailors and gardeners, but as soon as they clock off they transform themselves into debonair dandies. Sashaying through the streets they are treated like rock stars - turning heads, bringing 'joie de vivre' to their communities and defying their circumstances.

The individualism of the French peasantry during the nineteenth century has frequently been asserted as one of its most striking characteristics. In this 1999 book, Alan Baker challenges this orthodox view and demonstrates the extent to which peasants continued with traditional, and developed new, forms of collective action. He examines representations of the peasantry and discusses the discourse of fraternity in nineteenth-century France in general before considering specifically the historical development, geographical diffusion and changing functions of fraternal voluntary associations in Loir-et-Cher between 1815 and 1914. Alan Baker focuses principally upon associations aimed at reducing risk and uncertainty and upon associations intended to provide agricultural protection. A wide range of new voluntary associations were established in Loir-et-Cher - and indeed throughout rural France - during the nineteenth century. Their historical geography throws new light upon the sociability, upon the changing mentalités, of French peasants, and upon the role of fraternal associations in their struggle for survival.

Summary: "This book provides a fascinating insight to the vibrant street style of the "Sapeurs", the elegant and immaculately dressed dandies from the heart of the Congo. The Sapeurs today belong to 'Le SAPE' (Societe des Ambianceurs et des Personnes Élégantes, or the Society of Tastemakers and Elegant people) - one of the world's most exclusive clubs. Members have their own code of honour, codes of professional conduct and strict notions of morality. It is a world within a world within a city. Designer brands of suits and accessories are of the utmost importance to Sapeurs - Pierre Cardin, Roberto Cavalli, Dior, Fendi, Gaultier, Gucci, Issey Miyake, Prada, Yves Saint Laurent, Versace, Yohji Yamamoto - are their patron saints. Unlike some US hip-hop gangs who are dressed in similar fine threads, there is no bloodshed here - here your clothes do all the fighting for you, otherwise you are not fit to be called a Sapeur. The result is a unique and inspiring style, that has captured the imagination of people all over the world - the sapeurs are now truly the kings of elegance"-- Publisher's web site.

The book explores the dandy as a cultural type across Europe and Russia from the eighteenth century through the present day. Olga Vainshtein offers a unique view on dandyism as a cultural tradition, based not merely on fashionable attire, but also as a particular lifestyle with specific standards of behaviour, bodily practices and conceptual approaches to dress. The dandy is described as the prototypical hero of the modern cult of celebrities. From clubbing manners, the techniques of virtual aristocratism, urban flâneurs and the correct way to examine people, Vainshtein walks us through optical duels and the techniques of visual assessment at social gatherings. Readers will learn about strategies of subversive behaviour found in practical jokes, the fine art of noble scandal, dry wit, bare-faced impudence and mocking politeness. Looking at dandyism as a nineteenth-century literary movement, Vainshtein examines representation of dandies in fiction. Finally, a large section is devoted to Russian and Soviet dandyism and the dandies of today.

1. The Art of Gnidnarb Need for a new way of experiencing Branding as a mirror Magical Effect: the Hitchcock clinic The consumer as co-designer The curse of empowerment The Consuman Being Emocoding A coat of values 2. The Multiple Identity Crisis Democratic problems The social trapeze artist - Identity crisis 1: Good honest coffee - Identity crisis 2: Best is cheapest - Identity crisis 3: The new besiegers - Identity crisis 4: More good honest coffee - Identity crisis 5: The Paul Smith rip off The consumer taken hostage Acquired helplessness Escapism New eras 3. The Discovery of Identity I am not myself (and actually never have been) The other as a stranger Whom do I belong to? Mirror image, let's hear it Experience of identity through the camera Your unique identity development The eye of the other From the English pub 4. The Social Jungle Social reflexes Being single is hard work Looks as an instrument for social benchmarking Tribe formation along the lines of a code The basic 'in or out' game Social dominoes Personal buffer: the comfort zone As long as you look good Ignore it New Social Order: Respect! 5. Status and Symbol The Code of status Three Scarcity Trends 1. Thin as status indicator 2. 'Ordinary' as status indicator 3. Bare and empty as status indicator Status and gap Buying off our guilt D Fence Lost secret Politically incorrect: incorrect politics 6. The Basic Design The design matrix Round-trip to Paradise The Suitcase project Feeling like animation Branding and backwards Purchasing drive: 'I shop, therefore I am' Waste economy Puppets on a string Virtually real Visual statements of fashion and trendiness Lifestyle as fashion The Art of Credibility 7. Makeover Visible and invisible moments The Great Positioning Choice Juggling self-control 1. Predator or prey 2. Group thinking 3. Skin or hide Visual culture and the manipulation of images The Emocode as an index for identity experience values One of the herd or free individual Between two worlds The Invisible Man 8. Sanctuary The need for a bubble Safe on the inside, shiny on the outside Sunglasses The mobile phone Designer Teeth The Coded Society Shoes New metasystems Sophistication in identity design 9. Transformation A new life I M Perfect: Redemption, liberation of yourself Mental makeover Scarifications Liberation from the self-image Transformation of perception1 Hype Design A transformation in your life Transformation by looking outwards Innocence regained The 'I-am-Me' moment The three crucial elements Transformation through self-friendship About the author Works cited List of Illustrations Further sources of inspiration Index.

Fashionable Masculinities explores the expression of masculinities through constructions of fashion, identity, style and appearance as the third decade of the new millennium begins: a contradictory and precarious moment when masculinities are defined by protests and pandemics whilst being problematized across class, ethnicity, race, gender and sexuality. Whilst a majority of men might still define themselves as ‘traditional,’ post-millennials are now talking about how they envision a future without gender boundaries and borders. Rather than being defined as a gender, masculinity has now become a style that can be worn and performed as traditional and normative codes of masculinity are modulated and manipulated. This volume includes original essays on musical pop sensation Harry Styles, rapper and producer “Puff Daddy” Sean Combs, lumbersexuals, spornosexuals, sexy daddies, and aging cool black daddies. Bringing together contributions from leading scholars, this book interrogates and challenges the meaning of masculinities and the ways that they are experienced and lived.

In recent decades, Africans have migrated to Europe in larger numbers than ever before; Africans are now a visible part of Europe s multiethnic landscape. The present volume brings together essays by an international group of social scientists which focus on economic and affective flows of goods, resources, and people, with careful attention to the regulatory forces of state and non-state (kin/friends/partners) actors. The aim is to integrate a scattered, but overlapping, set of literatures addressing care and intimacy in a variety of different ways among which are marriage migration, domestic labor, global care chains, romance travel, and moving for health resources. While any one paper may focus more on what the editors call affective circuits --the circulation of migrants, kin and goods--or on regulatory regimes, for example regulation of migration, labor, and material flows through state apparatuses, each addresses the complex intersections of the two dimensions of African migration to Europe. Each chapter focuses on the spaces between Africa and Europe and backs up arguments with ethnographic data and descriptions ranging across numerous different countries. This volume promises to become a benchmark in the burgeoning field of migration studies in anthropology. "

Though less celebrated than the infantry and cavalry, Napoleon's 'specialist' troops – artillery, engineers and supporting services – were indispensable elements without which no army could have operated, and frequently assumed greater significance than the line regiments. Indeed, having suffered least from the emigration of Royalist officers, the artillery was the best element of the early Republican armies, the nucleus of the old Royal artillery serving with distinction in the early campaigns such as Valmy. The organisation and uniform of Napoleon's specialist troops are here examined by Philip Haythornwaite in a engaging volume complemented by a wealth of illustrations including eight full page colour plates by Bryan Fosten.