Dispersive Shallow Water Waves

This monograph presents cutting-edge research on dispersive wave modelling, and the numerical methods used to simulate the propagation and generation of long surface water waves. Including both an overview of existing dispersive models, as well as recent breakthroughs, the authors maintain an ideal balance between theory and applications. From modelling tsunami waves to smaller scale coastal processes, this book will be an indispensable resource for those looking to be brought up-to-date in this active area of scientific research. Beginning with an introduction to various dispersive long wave models on the flat space, the authors establish a foundation on which readers can confidently approach more advanced mathematical models and numerical techniques. The first two chapters of the book cover modelling and numerical simulation over globally flat spaces, including adaptive moving grid methods along with the operator splitting approach, which was historically proposed at the Institute of Computational Technologies at Novosibirsk. Later chapters build on this to explore high-end mathematical modelling of the fluid flow over deformed and rotating spheres using the operator splitting approach. The appendices that follow further elaborate by providing valuable insight into long wave models based on the potential flow assumption, and modified intermediate weakly nonlinear weakly dispersive equations. Dispersive Shallow Water Waves will be a valuable resource for researchers studying theoretical or applied oceanography, nonlinear waves as well as those more broadly interested in free surface flow dynamics.

This monograph provides a comprehensive and self-contained study on the theory of water waves equations, a research area that has been very active in recent years. The vast literature devoted to the study of water waves offers numerous asymptotic models.

In this book an introduction is given to aspects of water waves that play a role in ship hydrodynamics and offshore engineering. At first the equations and linearized boundary conditions are derived describing the non-viscous free surface water waves, with special attention to the combination of steady and non-steady flow fields. Then some simple kinds of free wave solutions are derived, such as plane waves and cylindrical waves. For several situations, steady and unsteady, the source singularity function is derived. These functions play a role in numerical codes used to describe the motion of ships and offshore structures. These codes are mostly based on a boundary integral formulation; therefore we give an introduction to these methods. It is shown how first order ship motions can be determined. In offshore engineering the second order wave drift motions play an important role. An introduction to this phenomenon is given and the effects which have to be taken into account are explained by means of a simple example where we can determine nearly all the aspects analytically. An interesting example that is worked out is the motion of very large floating flexible platforms with finite draft. Finally an introduction to the theory of shallow water non-linear dispersive waves is presented, and shallow water ship hydrodynamics, that plays a role in coastal areas and channels is treated. Here attention is paid to the interaction between passing ships in restricted water. In the appendix a short introduction to some of the mathematical tools is given.

This revised and updated second edition details the vast progress that has been achieved in the understanding of the physical mechanisms of rogue wave phenomenon in recent years. The selected articles address such issues as the formation of rogue waves due to modulational instability of nonlinear wave field, physical and statistical properties of extreme ocean wave generation in deep water as well as in shallow water, various models of nonlinear water waves, special analysis of nonlinear resonances between water waves and the relation between in situ observations, experimental data and rogue wave theories. In addition, recent results on tsunami waves due to subaerial landslides are presented. This book is written for specialists in the fields of fluid mechanics, applied mathematics, nonlinear physics, physical oceanography and geophysics, and for students learning these subjects.

This book describes new theoretical advances concerning analytical solutions of the Rotating Shallow Water Equations, which will make it of great interest to graduate students and scientists in the fields of Geophysical Fluid Dynamics, Physical Oceanography, Dynamical Meteorology and Applied Mathematics. The new dispersion relations and meridional amplitude variations of waves derived in this book can be applied to observations in the atmosphere and ocean and also provide alternatives to the Spherical Harmonics basis of global-scale spectral numerical models.

This book discusses the numerical simulation of water waves, which combines mathematical theories and modern techniques of numerical simulation to solve the problems associated with waves in coastal, ocean, and environmental engineering. Bridging the gap between practical mathematics and engineering, the book describes wave mechanics, establishment of mathematical wave models, modern numerical simulation techniques, and applications of numerical models in engineering. It also explores environmental issues related to water waves in coastal regions, such as pollutant and sediment transport, and introduces numerical wave flumes and wave basins. The material is self-contained, with numerous illustrations and tables, and most of the mathematical and engineering concepts are presented or derived in the text. The book is intended for researchers, graduate students and engineers in the fields of hydraulic, coastal, ocean and environmental engineering with a background in fluid mechanics and numerical simulation methods.