Labor And Creativity In New York S Global Fashion Industry

This book tells the story of fashion workers engaged in the labor of design and the material making of New York fashion. Christina H. Moon offers an illuminating ethnography into the various sites and practices that make up fashion labor in sample rooms, design studios, runways, factories, and design schools of the New York fashion world. By exploring the work practices, social worlds, and aspirations of fashion workers, this book offers a unique look into the meaning of labor and creativity in 21st century global fashion. This book will be of interest to scholars in design studies, fashion history, and fashion labor.

Fashion, Upcycling, and Memory questions practices and explores its profound connection to memory and sustainability. Through a practice-based researcher lens, the research examines the intricate interplay between upcycling and memory, unveiling assemblages of concepts, objects, and values that inspire action. This book takes readers on a journey through the multidimensional relationship between individuals and clothing. It delves into the disposal of garments and the transformative aspirations embedded within the fashion industry. Employing the unique research methodology known as "A/r/t/ography," which merges artistic practice, rigorous research, and educational development, this book unearths the dynamic interplay between upcycling and memory. The author unravels the intricate web of connections within upcycling through diverse practices, methods, and insightful interviews. By critically questioning established norms and scrutinizing the actions of fashion designers, the book makes significant contributions to existing literature. Additionally, it offers practical recommendations for sustainable fashion education, making it an indispensable resource for individuals involved in the textile and fashion field. Enhanced with visual aids such as images and illustrations, this book ensures an engaging reading experience that immerses readers in the research-based discourse.

This new edition of a classic work offers a concise introduction to the sociology of fashion, and demystifies the workings of the fashion system. From the origins of fashion studies and the difference between clothing and fashion, through to an examination of 21st century subcultures, and the impact of the digital age on designers, Fashion-ology explores fashion as a global, institutionalized system. With accessible overviews of key debates, issues and perspectives, Yuniya Kawamura provides a complete exploration of the field. Two two new chapters have been added for this third edition, covering 'The Diversification and Changing Landscapes of Fashion Systems' and 'Ecological and Social Sustainability in Fashion' respectively. There's also more on: - the metaverse as the latest fashion system - the de-Westernization of fashion - postmodern discourse on fashion's relationship to race, gender and class - social media as consumption, production, evaluation, and marketing - fashion weeks, including Modest Fashion Week, Black Fashion Week, the Global Sustainability Fashion Week, and Queer Fashion Week There's also a guide to sociological research in fashion, making this essential reading for anyone studying fashion, sociology, anthropology, or cultural studies.

This collection of original essays interrogates disciplinary boundaries in fashion, gathering fashion studies research across disciplines and from around the globe. Fashion and clothing are part of material and visual culture, cultural memory, and heritage; they contribute to shaping the way people see themselves, interact, and consume. For each of the volume’s eight parts, scholars from across the world and a variety of disciplines offer analytical tools for further research. Never neglecting the interconnectedness of disciplines and domains, these original contributions survey specific topics and critically discuss the leading views in their areas. They include discursive and reflective pieces, as well as discussions of original empirical work, and contributors include established leaders in the field, rising stars, and new voices, including practioner and industry voices. This is a comprehensive overview of the field, ideal not only for undergraduate and postgraduate fashion studies students, but also for researchers and students in communication studies, the humanities, gender and critical race studies, social sciences, and fashion design and business.

There is widespread rhetorical agreement that the fashion industry must get itself onto a more sustainable footing. What does this mean in practice, and how can sustainability be achieved in different regions around the world? This book brings together expert scholars and reflective practitioners via a network of dialogue and exchange to help drive forward a sustainable future for the fashion industry. With a focus on technological innovation, the contributions to this book provide a range of case studies from design thinking, through digital clothing and inclusive fashion. This book will be of interest to researchers and scholars in the fields of circular business and the fashion industry, and provides a unique resource for readers seeking to understand more about the need for responsible fashion and how technology might be able to help.

Drawing from American history, fashion design, history of luxury, visual culture, museum studies, and women’s history, among others, this book explores the challenges, rewards and benefits of teaching business and the labor history of art and design professions to those in higher education. Recognizing that artists and designers are no longer just creatives, but bosses, employees, members of professional associations, and citizens of nations that encourage and restrain their creative work in various ways, the book identifies a crucial need for art and design students to be taught the intricacies of these other roles, as well as how to navigate or challenge them. This empirically driven study features case studies in various pedagogical contexts, including museum exhibitions, group projects, lesson plans, discussion topics, and long-term assignments. The chapters also explore how the roles of designing and making became separated, how new technologies and the rise of mass production affected creative careers, the shifts back and forth between direct employment and freelancing, and the evolution of government interventions in creative fields. With a diverse and experienced range of contributors, and providing a unique set of conceptual tools to interpret, cope with, and react to the ever-changing conditions of capitalism, this volume will appeal to educators and researchers across education, history, art history, and sociology, with interests in experiential learning, capitalism, equity, social justice and neoliberalism.

An innovative history of the fashion industry, focusing on the connections between Paris and New York, art and finance, and design and manufacturing. Fashion is one of the most dynamic industries in the world, with an annual retail value of $3 trillion and globally recognized icons like Coco Chanel, Christian Dior, and Yves Saint Laurent. How did this industry generate such economic and symbolic capital? Focusing on the roles of entrepreneurs, designers, and institutions in fashion’s two most important twentieth-century centers, Paris to New York tells the history of the industry as a negotiation between art and commerce. In the late nineteenth century, Paris-based firms set the tone for a global fashion culture nurtured by artistic visionaries. In the burgeoning New York industry, however, the focus was on mass production. American buyers, trend scouts, and designers crossed the Atlantic to attend couture openings, where they were inspired by, and often accused of counterfeiting, designs made in Paris. For their part, Paris couturiers traveled to New York to understand what American consumers wanted and to make deals with local manufacturers for whom they designed exclusive garments and accessories. The cooperation and competition between the two continents transformed the fashion industry in the early and mid-twentieth century, producing a hybrid of art and commodity. Véronique Pouillard shows how the Paris–New York connection gave way in the 1960s to a network of widely distributed design and manufacturing centers. Since then, fashion has diversified. Tastes are no longer set by elites alone, but come from the street and from countercultures, and the business of fashion has transformed into a global enterprise.

The study of fashion has expanded into a thriving field of inquiry, with researchers utilizing diverse methods from across subject disciplines to explore fashion and dress in wide-ranging contexts. With an emphasis on material culture and ethnographic approaches in fashion studies, this groundbreaking volume offers fascinating insights into the complex dynamics of research and fashion. Featuring unique case studies, with interdisciplinary scholars reflecting on their practical research experiences, Fashion Studies provides rich and nuanced perspectives on the use, and mixing and matching of methodological approaches – including object and image based research, the integration of qualitative and quantitative methods and the fluid bridging of theory and practice. Engaging with diverse subjects, from ethnographies of model casting and street-style blogging, wardrobe studies and a material culture analysis of global denim wearing, to Martin Margiela's design and archival methods, Fashion Studies presents complex approaches in a lively and informative manner that will appeal to students of fashion, anthropology, sociology, cultural studies and related fields.