Performance Rock Climbing

Handbook for experienced climbers covers all the physical and psychological aspects of climbing training.

This book is for climbers of all ages, abilities, and interests who wish to improve their performance. Climbing: Training for Peak Performance carefully details the foundation and fundamentals of nutrition for mind and body, flexibility training, aerobic, and strength conditioning, and how to put it all together to help you perform better.

Drawing on new research in sports medicine, nutrition, and fitness, this book offers a training program to help any climber achieve superior performance and better mental concentration on the rock, with less risk of injury.

The definitive resource to brain-training for climbing—by an internationally recognized expert As physical as climbing is, it is even more mental. Ultimately, people climb with their minds—hands and feet are merely extensions of their thoughts and will. Becoming a master climber requires that you first master your mind. In Maximum Climbing, America’s best-selling author on climbing performance presents a climber’s guide to the software of the brain—one that will prove invaluable whether one's preference is bouldering, sport climbing, traditional climbing, alpine climbing, or mountaineering. Eric Hörst brings unprecedented clarity to the many cognitive and neurophysical aspects of climbing and dovetails this information into a complete program, setting forth three stages of mental training that correspond to beginner, intermediate, and elite levels of experience and commitment—the ideal template to build upon to personalize one's goals through years of climbing to come.

Climbing has become a mainstream sport with more participants than skiing or snowboarding and, among the different types of climbing, gym climbing is the most popular. Where gyms were once a training ground for rock and alpine climbers, many participants now regularly climb indoors with no plans beyond tackling the ever-changing routes of their neighborhood hangout. When Mountaineers Books published the first edition of this title in 2004 there were approximately 250 climbing gyms in the United States. Today there are more than 650. In this completely revised second edition, author Matt Burbach focuses his instruction on climbers who want to excel on indoor routes and problems. The new edition includes: Step-by-step training for beginners Strategies for progressing to dynamic movements to top out on ever more difficult new-school routes and problems Both bouldering and top-roping instruction Physical conditioning, mental training, and kinesiological assessment and theory The latest belay and safety techniques Explanation of equipment, which is safer, lighter, and more comfortable than ever This edition also includes entirely new photos (now in color), with professional climbers Emily Harrington and Matt Segal demonstrating the moves and gym climbing techniques throughout the book.

A dynamic package of training material from a pair of expert coaches, The Self-Coached Climber offers comprehensive instruction, from the basics of gripping holds to specific guidelines for developing a customized improvement plan. Hague and Hunter base their methods on the four fundamental components of all human movement--balance, force, time, and space--and explain how to apply these principles to achieve efficient results. The DVD presents live demonstrations of training exercises and features an original documentary of a 5.14a/b redpoint attempt by Adam Stack and Chris Lindner. Self-Coached Climber was named a finalist in the Mountain Exposition Category at the 2007 Banff Mountain Festival.

“The old way of climbing was systematic, methodical, and consistent. Now it’s anything goes, reacting to every situation differently.” —Tommy Caldwell • For skilled climbers who want to push to the next level • Tips and advice from Tommy Caldwell, Steph Davis, Lynn Hill, Alex Honnold and more of the world’s best climbers • 250 color photographs and 12 illustrations Advanced Rock Climbing: Expert Skills and Techniques is for good climbers who want to get even better—from training to gear, sport climbing to multi-pitch efficiency, and beyond. Each chapter has detailed advice from some of the world’s best climbers and guides—Tommy Caldwell, Angela Hawse, Justen Sjong, Steph Davis, Sonny Trotter, Alex Honnold, Lynn Hill, and more. Through clear, step-by-step instruction, detailed color photographs, and hard-earned wisdom, this new guide helps strong climbers increase their speed on multi-pitch climbs, conserve energy on big faces, train for tendon strength, improvise self-rescue, and more. Advanced Rock Climbing is for someone who has been climbing for several years and aspires to transition from intermediate to advanced levels, experienced climbers who are stuck in a rut, and naturally talented climbers who are climbing high grades but who may not have the experience to go further safely.

Written by a professional trainer and climber, this guide allows each climber to tailor a training program to his or her specific needs.