Perfumes Cosmetics And Soaps The Raw Materials Of Perfumery Volume 1

This classic work by Poucher, first published in 1923, was last produced in three volumes titled, respectively The Raw Materials of Perfumery (seventh edition, 1974), The Production, Manufacture and Application of Perfumes (eighth edition, 1974) and Modern Cosmetics (eighth edition, 1974). Its popularity is well demonstrated by there having been three reprints of these editions in 1976, 1979 and 1984, respectively. The history of events can be traced by reference to the prefaces to earlier editions and those interested should study these with care since they give a fascinating insight into developments in the subject fields covered by Poucher's Perfumes, Cosmetics and Soaps over the years. It is not proposed to provide a resume here. In this Volume I, the current edition attempts to provide data about raw materials in a more formalized way than before, so that not only the history of some compounds can be checked, but also so that useful reference information can be obtained. It is particularly relevant to do this, since it is not always easy to be certain of nomenclature. Moreover, as we move towards 'ingredient labelling' (a trend not welcomed by some), a high level of uniformity will be needed. Whether this will come from adoption of CTFA terminology, use of CAS numbers or some other system is not clear. Where possible, such data have been included so that readers may identify materials more readily. Where given, CAS numbers are located in the top right-hand corner of each entry.

This edition is the 1941 edition and is a reprint of the original. Containing a dictionary of the raw materials of perfumery together with formulae for synthetics and their physical constants.

This classic work by Poucher, first published in 1923, was last produced in three volumes titled, respectively The Raw Materials of Perfumery (seventh edition, 1974), The Production, Manufacture and Application of Perfumes (eighth edition, 1974) and Modern Cosmetics (eighth edition, 1974). Its popularity is well demonstrated by there having been three reprints of these editions in 1976, 1979 and 1984, res pecti vel y . The history of events can be traced by reference to the prefaces to earlier editions and those interested should study these with care since they give a fascinating insight into developments in the subject fields covered by Poucher's Perfumes, Cosmetics and Soaps over the years. It is not proposed to provide a resume here. In this Volume I, the current edition attempts to provide data about raw materials in a more formalized way than before, so that not only the history of some compounds can be checked, but also so that useful reference information can be obtained. It is particularly relevant to do this, since it is not always easy to be certain of nomenclature. Moreover, as we move towards 'ingredient labelling' (a trend not welcomed by some), a high level of uniformity will be needed. Whether this will come from adoption of CTFA terminology, use of CAS numbers or some other system is not clear. Where possible, such data have been included so that readers may identify materials more readily. Where given, CAS numbers are located in the top right-hand corner of each entry.

During the past decade there have been many changes in the perfumery industry which are not so much due to the discovery and application of new raw materials, but rather to the astronomic increase in the cost of labour required to produce them. This is reflected more particularly in the flower industry, where the cost of collecting the blossoms delivered to the factories has gone up year after year, so much so that most flowers with the possible exception of Mimosa, have reached a cost price which has compelled the perfumer to either reduce his purchases of absolutes and concretes, or alternatively to substitute them from a cheaper source, or even to discontinue their use. This development raises an important and almost insoluble problem for the perfumer, who is faced with the necessity of trying to keep unchanged the bouquet of his fragrances, and moreover, to ensure no loss of strength and diffusiveness. Of course, this problem applies more especially to the adjustment of formulae for established perfumes, because in every new creation the present high cost of raw materials receives imperative con sideration before the formula is approved.

It is now fifteen years since the last edition of this reference volume appeared and during this time new materials have appeared and some have fallen into disuse. The present edition is the result of much revision and some deletion and an effort has been made to bring the information up-to-date and in conformity with current practice. Of recent years several speciality materials have appeared, and a number of these are included where their chemical composition is known. Speciality materials of vague composition are not included. For many of the compounds listed several alternative names are in use, some of which from the chemist's point of view are either inadequate, ambiguous, or occasionally actually misleading. In this edition the compounds have been listed under names which are considered to be chemically satisfactory and which, at the same time, should be reasonably familiar to perfumers; they do not necessarily contain full information as to the structure of the com pound and they make free use of widely accepted trivial names. In most of the entries this is followed by a systematic name which defines the chemical structure, while synonyms which are in use, though sometimes chemically unsatisfactory, are given in brackets, with a cross-reference to the main entry. Prefixes denoting structural features, such as n-, iso-, cis-, trans-, 0-, m-, p-, and so on are disregarded in the alphabetical listing.

Poucher's Perfumes Cosmetics and Soaps has been in print since 1923 and is the classic reference work in the field of cosmetics. Now in a fully updated 10th edition, this new volume provides a firm basic knowledge in the science of cosmetics (including toiletries) as well as incorporating the latest trends in scientific applications and legislation which have occurred since the 9th edition. This edition will not only be an excellent reference book for students entering the industry but also for those in specialized research companies, universities and other associated institutions who will be able to gain an overall picture of the modern cosmetic science and industry. The book has been logically ordered into four distinct parts. The historical overview of Part 1 contains an essay demonstrating William Arthur Poucher's influence on the 20th Century cosmetics industry as well as a chapter detailing the long history of cosmetics. Part 2 is a comprehensive listing of the properties and uses of common cosmetic types, ranging from Antiperspirants through to Sunscreen preparations. There are an increased number of raw materials in use today and their chemical, physical and safety benefits are carefully discussed along with formulation examples. The many additions since the last edition demonstrate the dramatic recent expansion in the industry and how changes in legal regulations affecting the development, production and marketing of old, established and new products are operative almost worldwide. Information on specialist products for babies and others is included within individual chapters. The chapters in Part 3 support and outline the current guidelines regarding the assessment and control of safety and stability. This information is presented chemically, physically and microbiologically. Part 3 chapters also detail requirements for the consumer acceptability of both existing and new products. Those legal regulations now in force in the EU, the USA and Japan are carefully described in a separate chapter and the remaining chapters have been extensively updated to explain the technical and practical operations needed to comply with regulations when marketing. This information will be invaluable to European Union and North American companies when preparing legally required product information dossiers. The final chapters in Part 4 contain useful information on the psychology of perfumery as well as detailing methods for the conduct of assessment trials of new products. As ingredient labelling is now an almost universal legal requirement the International Nomenclature of Cosmetics Ingredients (INCI) for raw materials has been used wherever practicable. The advertised volume is the 10th edition of what was previously known as volume 3 of Poucher's Cosmetics and Soaps. Due to changes in the industry there are no plans to bring out new editions of volume 1 and 2.

It is now fifteen years since the last edition of this reference volume appeared and during this time new materials have appeared and some have fallen into disuse. The present edition is the result of much revision and some deletion and an effort has been made to bring the information up-to-date and in conformity with current practice. Of recent years several speciality materials have appeared, and a number of these are included where their chemical composition is known. Speciality materials of vague composition are not included. For many of the compounds listed several alternative names are in use, some of which from the chemist's point of view are either inadequate, ambiguous, or occasionally actually misleading. In this edition the compounds have been listed under names which are considered to be chemically satisfactory and which, at the same time, should be reasonably familiar to perfumers; they do not necessarily contain full information as to the structure of the com pound and they make free use of widely accepted trivial names. In most of the entries this is followed by a systematic name which defines the chemical structure, while synonyms which are in use, though sometimes chemically unsatisfactory, are given in brackets, with a cross-reference to the main entry. Prefixes denoting structural features, such as n-, iso-, cis-, trans-, 0-, m-, p-, and so on are disregarded in the alphabetical listing.